Set in a beautiful and seemingly remote location outside the postal town of Tsumago, this Ryokan was, I think, the posh end of the scale. Rooms had ensuite facilities, it was more like a boutique hotel than a guest house. On arrival our host asked our plans, talked us through the hike we were undertaking the next day, then took us for a tour of the Ryokan walking backwards (him, not us) the whole way! The same host served our meals. Service was excellent.
A proper hot spring onsen – actually two, one for each gender – was the highlight alongside the food which was extraordinary.
Both dinner and breakfast were traditional affairs – multi-course with what we are now realising is either tourist torture or is genuinely local cuisine. Horse meat – enough said. The Wagu need was amazing, as was the Sushimi.
The only downside was the general decor. It was very dated and a bit scruffy. If only I’d had my wood polishing kit with me….